With my designer 'goggles' on in bottleshops, I instantly write-off any wine bottle that looks 'designed'. I go for that dusty one in the corner that looks like the label was created back when the great grandson ran the vineyard, back when computers didn't exist. No marketing ploy or angle, just simply a label that expresses itself earnestly.
I suppose I am still judging the bottle by it's cover, but in a filtering kind of way. I would never fall for clever, wacky themed bottles. With wine, I see design as a coverup.
A little limited in view (and potentially damaging self-promo confession!) because really, a good winemaker may well employ a good designer to package it up for best sales. Y'know, they may be market savy and want to sell EVEN more. Even though their wine is good. SO they might come up with some theme like Fire, Water, Earth and.. Pollution or whatever, and make it all 20-something cool to collect. or not.
Really, I guess I believe good wine will sell itself!
If anyone knows how much design DOESN'T correlate with product, I do.
Yep, a designer knows the hog wash that is design! I mean, to THINK that people actually THINK that design is a true representation! ha. Of course if you are working on something you love, and you put your love into it, and design appropriately, yes, then it can be. But as if a designer who is working on a foul tasting shiraz would go and deep etch a pile of poo and put that on the label with some comic sans type! nup! A designer will do what they are well paid to, design something beautiful!
And I will go into this more soon with oil company logos as the prime example!
BUT! I was in Exmouth and I was feeling giddy and I saw this bottle on the counter of the Italian restaurant and something came over me, like it was gold, and I MUST have it. So I rounded up my cash and came back to get my bottle of Dogajolo. Whether I was fooled or not, I would not know, until I opened it.

I waited for my Italian friend Alfredo to be at his best 'personality moment' to share it, waited and waited, until the only moment that seemed feasible to cork it, was as we were packing up boxes in my house! Not exactly fitting for this stunning label, but with some berry tart, we grabbed a neighbour with a corkscrew.
And like golden autumn leaves dappled in rich colours on a textured felty paper, this wine was divine, it ooozed artistry. I love it. I judged well. OR more precisely, the designer told the truth. Well.
And now I am re-working my theory of bottle designs, and trying to distinguish between that which is designed, that which is not designed and that which has some super magical artisan quality that reflects the designers actual belief in the product.
Maybe designers could invent a little secret symbol to hide in their artwork that actually means "hey, this is truly good' like a special "designer tick".
My theme song for this wine "I don't know much, but I know I love youuuuuu".
And for those that speak 'wine'. Here is the back of the label.

[current mood] Red Red Wine & Family chatter in the background